Hi SakkuraOriginally Posted by Sakkura
Do you have any ideas about my problem? I've used the exact setup you suggested, 670 aside, and honestly can't see what's causing this issue..
Hi Sakkura
Do you have any ideas about my problem? I've used the exact setup you suggested, 670 aside, and honestly can't see what's causing this issue..
I may be misunderstanding the problem, but this might have something to do with setting up your desktops. Have you tried duplicating the display, instead of stretching it? Check desktop setup if you can. Not familiar with Nvidia, but I know this kind of stuff can happen with ATI cards when the settings for display aren't what it expects.
It's an odd problem for sure.
I've googled around a bit and came across a few people who fixed their problems with a GTX 670 by changing from PCIe 3.0 to 2.0 in BIOS. It might be worth a try.
Honestly though, I'd probably be very close to doing an RMA in your situation.
I read that too, and it was the last thing I decided to try. I will report back in a bit, but if that doesn't work it's going back. Then I'll be looking at some alternatives (again!). Problem is, if they say it's not faulty... what then? can I say it doesn't work based on drivers or conflicts? It sure as hell doesn't work for me. I got it from ebuyer, and I have to say they've usually been great with me, historically (since 2003 I think!).
Nope.
Played with a few BIOS things some more and to no avail, just can't get past the windows starting screen with any NVIDIA drivers installed. It's going back. Vaguely gutted.
I just wanted to hammer this home.
The gtx 670 (even the overclocked gigabyte one) has less than 160 watt PEAK power consumption under full load when gaming. Idle power usage is hilariously low, there is no way you couldn't boot even if you had a 300 Watt psu...
Compare this to a gtx260 (4 year old card), uses 180w ... shitloads of people ran that gpu for years on a 400 watt power supply.
A friend of mine has a gtx260 (just replaced with a 560ti) and he ran that card for almost 3 years on a 400Watt cpu (not some fancy gold label one either).
Anything 500W or higher is MORE than enough for a high end cpu + high end single gpu + raid setup for hdds.
Do not waste your money on a new psu...
Man it must have taken some hilarious levels of viral marketing to convince the average pc user that they need 600+watt power supplies :\
last time i saw this problem it was a faulty mobo slot! but i had used 2 cards and found the same issue
Cheers ian.
I guess I'll get another card of some form and then we'll know. The 670 could only fit in one slot, so couldn't find out that way. I did, naturally, try!
I'm probably too late here but I'd emphasise that if drivers don't solve the problem you need to get the card returned ASAP
If you're in the UK (or if your country has an equivalent to our DSR) you have a period of time (7 days from delivery here) to return anything without needing to say why (you have to pay return postage if the seller said you have to - otherwise they need to cover that too)
After that you're in the realm of them accepting it as faulty which could be tricky.
I've changed 100s of GPUs in my life and they all went "remove old drivers, shutdown, remove old card, insert new card (swear at cabling, sneeze at dust!), reboot, watch screen flash a few times, perhaps another restart, windows working, install new drivers, job done.
Creator of Steam Greenlight LITE
Cheers trjp,
As it happens it did go back to ebuyer within 3 days, and, thankfully, I had an email from them today confirming that the card itself was faulty. So they pay for the courier and so on and I get a full refund. Interesting that the particular model I had has now been discontinued from them.. interesting. Inno3d I think it was.. general problem with them, then?!
I did feel I'd done it all right; as I say I've done it all plenty of times in the past.. it had been a while but you know. It used to be harder!
Hopefully I'll be able to get another one pretty sharpish now, and that might actually work...
Heh - the only GPU I've ever binned as 'dead' was an Inno3D - I've never had a high opinion of them on that basis alone :)
Glad you got it sorted - worth emphasising that the DSR removes the need to argue about 'workingness' tho. I once had a VERY bad experience with Aria over something I returned which was clearly faulty but they claimed otherwise and demanded I pay to get it back ( 3lots of postage there then!!)
I decided to do just that - took it to Trading Standards - they agreed it was faulty and eventually forced Aria into replacing it and refunding 2 lots of postage - only took 3 months and they deliberately sent a cheque with the wrong name just to aggravate matters. Basically, I'd not piss on Aria if they were on fire - in fact I'd find a petrol station and help the fire along - that experience just taught me to abuse the DSR rather than my nerves...
Creator of Steam Greenlight LITE
Well I certainly won't be looking at Inno3D again without serious thought. Anyone can have a faulty item here and there, of course, but it's not great. The new one's Pallit and I've had them before without a problem.
Also glad it worked out easily (as long as the card you get instead works).
Interesting to see the different level of consumer protection. In Denmark, faulty goods can be returned within 2 years, and if returned within the first 6 months the burden of proof is on the retailer (if they decide to contest the claim).
That's exactly the same as the UK - first 6 months the retailer must prove the item is OK - after that the buyer must prove the item has an inherent fault or manufacturing defect - always with the retailer and NOT the manufacturer.
Problem is, if a mail-order company stonewalls you, you're forced into getting Trading Standards or the Small Claims Court involved - neither of which are exactly powerful. Trading Standards will lean-on retailers who mess people about but they can't prosecute every dodgy dealer and the worst offenders know this and ignore them. The small claims court is notorious for being impossible to enforce without costing a lot of money you may never get back - it's really just a nice 'threat' to land a fat brown official envelope with a court summons in it on someone's desk :)
Creator of Steam Greenlight LITE
I whacked in the new card and am now utterly apopleptic. The damn thing now gets nowhere at all, no signal gets sent to the monitor. There seems to be some sort of post happening as the keyboard lights go, but sometimes it restarts itself and so on. The BIOS info never comes up or anything, yet when I last turned it off it was fresh and fine, nvidia drivers gone, no problem smooth-as-you-like bootup into W7. I've tried 'waggling' things, ensuring connectors are all ok, ensuring memory, other leads, anything else I can think off are all fine and in place.
I am fucked off.
As far as I can tell, there is something seriously wrong, because I've reset the BIOS, tried running it with onboard settings, removed the card.. it's just dead. Keyboard lights flash but there's nothing at all getting to the monitor with the new system. Fuck fuck shit.
How many outputs are on the card? Are you using VGA or DVI or HDMI? Do you have any adapters? (VGA to DVI, vice versa, etc)
Uh, I think there are.. 3. Two DVIs, one with the cross, one with the line if that makes sense.. and an HDMI. I think that's it. I have an adapter that converts VGA-DVI, as my monitor connects from VGA. It works 100% fine with my old (this) one, but I'd assume that the VGA should still work from the motherboard VGA port - particularly if I also tried a CMOS clearing, which should make it revert to ensure that onboard out works...
This is certainly possible now.
But maybe you need to have the monitor connected to the DVI port instead of the VGA port or something like that?
edit: wait, so if you revert to original CMOS settings, plug into onboard VGA out you still get nothing?
Last edited by Sparkasaurusmex; 07-11-2012 at 07:14 PM.
TheRed what is your mobo?
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