What is HDR and how can I get it on PC?


If you’ve thought about buying a new TV in the last couple of years, you’ll no doubt have been bombarded with the glorious three-letter acronym that is HDR. Standing for ‘High Dynamic Range’, HDR is a type of display technology that’s all about making the things you see onscreen more realistic and closer to how they’d look in everyday life. That means improved contrast, a wider range of more accurate colours and increased luminosity – and it’s finally arrived on PC.

HDR on PC is a bit more complicated than it is over in the world of TVs, however, and a variety of competing standards, compatibility issues and the general fussiness of Windows 10 can make it quite a messy thing to try and untangle. In this article, I’ll be taking you through what HDR actually is and does, why it makes your games look better, as well as the best graphics cards, best gaming monitor and PC games you need in order to take advantage of it.

What is HDR?

Forget 4K. HDR is, for my money, the most exciting thing to happen in the world of displays since we stopped having to twiddle tiny little screws round the end of our monitor cables to get them to stay in place. As mentioned above, HDR is all about producing a more natural, life-like image through the use of brighter whites, darker blacks and a boatload more colours in-between than what we’re currently used to seeing on an SDR (or standard dynamic range) display.

The most important thing about HDR is that increased brightness. Without it, you lose that sense of contrast or ‘dynamic range’ that’s so vital to the way our eyes generally perceive the world around us. If you’ve ever taken a photo on a cloudy day and the sky’s come out all white, even though you yourself can clearly see several different shades of grey up there, it’s because your camera lens can’t interpret that amount of light data in the same way your own eyeballs can.

The same thing happens on SDR TVs and monitors. HDR aims to rectify this, showing you images onscreen that are as close as possible to how you’d see them in real life. That means better skies and horizons that are full of vivid and vibrant colour detail instead of huge swathes of white, and a more accurate gradation from dark to light when you move into murky pools of shadow.

Below, you’ll discover how HDR actually achieves all this, but if you want to skip straight to the good stuff about HDR-compatible graphics cards and PC games, then click this lovely link here: What graphics card do I need for HDR and what PC games support it?

How does HDR affect brightness?

The overall brightness of a display largely depends on the complexity of its backlight. In an LCD display, the backlight is the bit of the monitor that illuminates the pixels in front of it in order to show colour, and is usually comprised of LEDs, which is why you often see TVs referred to as LCD LED TVs. These days, most monitors are ‘edge-lit’ by backlights that run down either side of the display.

The very best TVs, however, have largely ditched the edge-lit method for lots of little backlight zones arranged in a grid. TV bods often refer to this as ‘full array local dimming’, as it enables a TV to more accurately respond to what’s onscreen, lowering the brightness in darker parts of the image in order for brighter ones to really come to the fore, such as street lamps and stars in the night sky. The more backlight zones a display has, the more accurately it can depict what’s happening onscreen while maintaining that all-important sense of contrast and dynamic range.

The good news is that we’re finally starting to see PC monitors do this as well. The Asus ROG Swift PG27UQ and Acer Predator X27 both have 384 backlight zones to their name, and the ludicrously wide Samsung CHG90 has them too – although exactly how many is currently only known to Samsung’s engineers.

This image doesn't really do the X27 justice compared to looking at it in the flesh, but the difference in how it handles night scenes is still quite stark

This image doesn’t really do the X27 (right) justice compared to looking at it in the flesh, but the difference in how it handles night scenes compared to a regular SDR monitor (left) is still quite stark.

Having lots of backlight zones is all well and good, but the key thing you need to watch out for is how bright they can actually go. Again, taking TVs as a starting point, the best (and currently identified via the Ultra HD Premium logo) can hit a whopping 1000cd/m2 (or nits, as some people say). Your average SDR TV, meanwhile, probably has a max brightness somewhere in the region of 400-500cd/m2. SDR Monitors, meanwhile, don’t usually go much higher than 200-300cd/m2.

This is where things get a bit complicated, as I’ve seen several monitors claim they’re HDR without getting anywhere near this kind of brightness intensity.

The current front-runners – the Asus PG27UQ and Acer Predator X27 – are targeting 1000cd/m2 like their Ultra HD Premium TV rivals. This is what Nvidia are also going after with their G-Sync HDR standard (of which the PG27UQ and X27 are a part of), and it’s also one of VESA’s DisplayHDR standards as well, helpfully dubbed VESA DisplayHDR 1000.

However, VESA also have HDR standards further down the spectrum for 600cd/m2 and 400cd/m2 brightness levels – VESA DisplayHDR 600 and VESA DisplayHDR 400. These will likely become the most widely-used standards in PC land, and I’ve already started seeing several monitors from the likes of AOC and Philips starting to adopt them.

Again, it's hard to tell from just a photo, but trust me, this is the BEST Cup Noodle sign you'll ever lay eyes on...

Again, it’s hard to tell from just a photo, but trust me, this is the BEST Cup Noodle sign you’ll ever lay eyes on…

Having a lower max brightness level, however, will naturally lessen the overall impact of HDR, and given that most SDR PC monitors can already hit around 300cd/m2, I’d argue that an extra 100cd/m2 isn’t going to make a huge amount of difference.

As such, if you’re considering getting an HDR monitor, I’d strongly advise going for one that, ideally, has a peak brightness of 1000cd/m2, or 600cd/m2 at the very minimum. Otherwise, you’re not really getting that much of an upgrade. These will naturally be more expensive than 400cd/m2 monitors, but if you really want to experience the full benefit of HDR, then you’ll be doing yourself a disservice with anything less.

How does HDR affect colour?

Of course, HDR isn’t just about increased brightness. It’s also about displaying a wider number of colours for that enhanced sense of realism. In many ways, brightness and colour quality are very much tied together, as due to a weird quirk in how our eyes work, the brighter something is, the more colourful we perceive it to be.

Taking brightness out of the equation for a moment, though, there are two main ingredients HDR needs to achieve its enhanced colour. The first relates to the panel’s bit-depth, and the second is to do with the range of colours it’s able to display – which is where all that talk about colour gamuts comes in. (I’m going to warn you now – there will be some GRAPHS in a minute to illustrate this, so be prepared for lots of bright colours).

For example, for a TV to be classified as an Ultra HD Premium TV, it must have a 10-bit colour panel and be able to hit at least 90% of the DCI-P3 colour gamut.

Let’s tackle bit-depth first. Without getting too bogged down in too much technical detail, the most important thing you need to know is that most displays these days use 8-bit panels that can display 16.78 million colours (you may also see this referred to as 24-bit colour or True Colour). Not bad, you might think, until you realise that 10-bit panels (also sometimes called 30-bit colour or Deep Colour) can display a massive 1.07 billion of them.

Samsung CHG90 Far Cry 5

Far Cry 5 really does look quite lovely in HDR on the Samsung CHG90

This is largely where PC monitors have been lagging behind. Even Nvidia have admitted that their G-Sync HDR panels on the Asus ROG Swift PG27UQ and Acer Predator X27 are technically only 8-bit panels that simulate 10-bit quality by means of a process called ‘2-bit dithering’ rather than being proper 10-bit, and you’ll find a similar situation over at VESA’s DisplayHDR standard as well. Here, VESA says a display only needs to have a true 8-bit panel (6-bit + 2-bit dithering that cheaper displays sometimes use isn’t good enough here) to earn itself one of their HDR monitor badges. If you’re an 8-bit + 2-bit, then you’re doing even better.

Personally, I’m not too worried about the 8-bit + 2-bit situation. Having seen the Asus PG27UQ up close, it’s still pretty damn convincing and easily the equal of any Ultra HD Premium TV out there. Still, even if PC monitors aren’t quite at true 10-bit yet, an 8-bit + 2-bit panel will still likely be better than one that’s just simply 8-bit, making it another thing to watch out for when you eventually come to buying one.

The sRGB colour gamut

This is the CIE 1931 chromaticity diagram, which shows all the known colours in our colour spectrum. D65 is where white lies, and the inner triangle represents the sRGB colour gamut boundaries.

Indeed, the number of colours a monitor is able to produce will naturally have a knock-on effect to its overall gamut coverage. Most of SDR displays are configured to show colours in what’s known as the sRGB colour gamut. This is a small portion (around 33%) of all the known colours our eyes can physically perceive, and largely resembles the number of colours visible in nature – what’s known as Pointer’s gamut, which in itself represents just under half of all known colours (or chromaticities) in the overall colour spectrum.

Until now, sRGB has been absolutely fine for everyday computing. It was, after all, created by Microsoft and HP in the mid 90s for that very purpose. But HDR displays are now targeting a much wider colour gamut known as DCI-P3. Covering around 45% of all known colours and a much larger chunk of Pointer’s gamut (87% as opposed to sRGB’s 69%), this standard was created by several of today’s top film studios for digital cinema (DCI actually stands for Digital Cinema Initiatives).

The main advantage DCI-P3 brings over sRGB is its extended red and green coverage, which is important because these are the colours our eyes are most sensitive to under normal lighting conditions. Its farthest blue point is actually exactly the same as what you’ll find in sRGB, as this is the colour we’re least sensitive to.

The DCI-P3 colour gamut

A bigger triangle this time, representing the DCI-P3 colour gamut. It’s 25% larger than the sRGB gamut, and extends its green and red coverage.

As mentioned above, the very best TVs must cover at least 90% of the DCI-P3 colour gamut, and this is largely being adopted by PC monitors as well – both by Nvidia’s G-Sync HDR specification and VESA’s DisplayHDR standards.

You may have also heard the phrase Rec. 2020 being bandied about as well. This refers to (among other things) an even wider colour gamut than DCI-P3 – around 63% of all known colours and 99.9% of Pointer’s gamut – and is also included as part of the minimum specification for Ultra HD Premium TVs.

However, while many Ultra HD Premium TVs support the Rec. 2020 standard, that doesn’t necessarily mean they can actually display it. Indeed, at the moment, there is currently no known display – certainly not one that’s available to buy, at any rate – that’s capable of producing anything close to the full Rec. 2020 colour space and will likely require the arrival of 12-bit panels in order to do so properly.

The Rec_2020 colour gamut

This is the Rec. 2020 colour gamut, which is even bigger than DCI-P3. It will be some time before we see displays that are capable of showing all of it, though…

As such, it will be a number of years yet before we need to start worrying about Rec. 2020, and any support included in stuff today is really only concerned with trying to help future-proof things further down the line. Really, the only thing you need to focus on right now is how well a monitor can display the DCI-P3 gamut.

What about AMD FreeSync 2 HDR?

Just to confuse things further, AMD are also throwing their hat into the HDR ring with their own standard: FreeSync 2. Much like Nvidia’s G-Sync HDR, this is an extension of AMD’s already-existing adaptive frame rate technology, FreeSync, which ensures low latency and adapts your monitor’s refresh rate in real time to match the frames being spat out by your graphics card for super smooth gaming and minimum tearing.

The reason I haven’t really mentioned FreeSync 2 until now is because AMD themselves haven’t ever said what FreeSync 2’s specification actually entails. The only concrete thing they’ve said about FreeSync 2 is that it will offer “twice the perceivable brightness and colour volume of sRGB”. Considering sRGB has nothing to do with brightness measurements, that essentially means naff all.

The only thing we really have to go on is the Samsung CHG90. When I tested this earlier in the year, I saw a peak brightness of around 500cd/m2, which sort of tallies with twice the perceivable brightness of a typical monitor, but only a DCI-P3 coverage of around 69% and sRGB coverage of 96% – which is a far cry from what Nvidia are going after with their 1000cd/m2, 90% DCI-P3 G-Sync HDR standard.

This would suggest that FreeSync 2 is more in line with VESA’s DisplayHDR 400 standard, which demands 95% sRGB coverage (technically it says Rec.709, but this is also what sRGB is actually based on) and a max brightness of at least 400cd/m2.

However in a recent interview with PC Perspective, AMD said FreeSync 2 wasn’t just getting rebranded to FreeSync 2 HDR, but that it’s essentially going to be targeting the same specification as VESA DisplayHDR 600 – which is confusing to say the least since the FreeSync 2-branded Samsung CHG90 clearly doesn’t meet its 90% DCI-P3 and 600cd/m2 requirements.

After much too-ing and fro-ing over what AMD actually meant in that interview, it would appear that they’re settling for something in the middle. That they’re not ‘lowering the bar’ by aligning FreeSync 2 specifically with the DisplayHDR 400 specification, but that a DisplayHDR 400 and FreeSync 2 certified display would be exceeding what’s required of just DisplayHDR 400. As a result, a DisplayHDR 600 display would also meet the FreeSync 2 specification and in turn likely exceed whatever the hell FreeSync 2 actually means.

In short, it would appear AMD FreeSync 2 probably requires a maximum brightness of at least 500cd/m2, but the jury’s out when it comes to colour gamut coverage.

If you thought that was confusing, though, then hold onto your hats…

What is HDR10 and Dolby Vision?

Another of the most common HDR standards you’ll see slapped on TV and display boxes is HDR 10. This has been adopted by almost every HDR TV currently available (as well as the PS4 Pro and Xbox One X) and it’s the default standard for Ultra HD Blu-rays as well – handy if you want to make sure your TV can actually take full advantage of that Ultra HD Blu-ray collection you’re building.

In display terms, HDR10 includes support for 10-bit colour, the Rec. 2020 colour gamut support and up to 10,000cd/m2 brightness. Again, HDR10 may support all these things, but that doesn’t necessarily mean a display can actually do all of them in practice.

Case in point: Dolby Vision. This has support for 12-bit colour (which doesn’t really exist yet) in addition to a max brightness of 10,000cd/m2 and Rec.2020 colour gamut support. Like I’ve said before, I’m sure there will come a time when these standards will start to make a meaningful difference to what you see on your tellyboxes, but right now, you’re getting pretty much the same deal either way.

A key thing to also point out is that the main thing differentiating HDR10 and DolbyVision (and now HDR10+, which is an improved version of HDR10) is all to do with how they handle HDR metadata – how films and their respective Blu-ray players talk to TVs in order to interpret their signals. This may be useful if you buy an HDR10 monitor, for instance, with the intention of hooking it up to an HDR10 compatible Blu-ray player, but otherwise, these other standards can largely be left behind in the world of TV buying.

Instead, it looks like the VESA DisplayHDR standards will become the baseline for PC HDR at the moment, with Nvidia’s G-Sync HDR and AMD’s FreeSync 2 HDR standards operating at the other end of the scale in much the same way as their regular G-Sync and FreeSync technologies do.

What do I need for HDR on PC?

With all this in mind, the best way to experience HDR on PC at the moment is to buy a monitor that hits the following sweetspots:

  • A high maximum brightness, ideally 1000cd/m2, but at least 600cd/m2+ if not
  • At least 90% coverage of the DCI-P3 colour gamut
  • A 10-bit panel (or an 8-bit + 2-bit one)

The problem comes when cheaper monitors say they do HDR, when really all they’re hitting is the increased colour gamut coverage. This is fine if all you’re after is a more accurate and better-looking screen without spending a huge amount of money – the BenQ EW277HDR (just £180 / $200) is a great example of this. But for those yearning for a true HDR ‘wow factor’, it’s all about that maximum brightness.

At the moment, the only monitors that really hit those requirements (and are actually available to buy, sort of) are the Asus ROG Swift PG27UQ and Acer Predator X27 – and sadly you’re going to have to pay through the roof in order to get one, too, with the Asus PG27UQ currently demanding £2300 of your fine English pounds or $2000 of your fine American dollars. The Samsung CHG90 is another decent choice if you’re after a super ultrawide monitor as well, but its maximum brightness does let it down slightly. It also still costs an arm and a leg at £1075 / $1000.

You will also need a PC running Windows 10 and a graphics card that can output HDR video signals. Speaking of which, why not head here next? 

What graphics card do I need for HDR and what PC games support it?


  1. dangermouse76 says:

    Yeah well looks I’ll be waiting for HDR to settle down a bit price wise.

    I take it HDR isn’t affected by screen resolution ? A 1080p screen at 600cd/m2 and a 1440p screen at 600cd/m2 using the same standard will looks the same apart from resolution ?

    Do size matter – snigger.

    24″ 1080p at 600cd/m2 and a 27″ 1440p at 600cd/m2 using same standard, will they look the same ?

    Will different manufacturer screens at the same standard look different ?

    • Katharine Castle says:

      Theoretically, they should look pretty much the same. Things like the panel’s colour accuracy etc will depend on the quality of the panel itself, but brightness capabilities should be the same across the board. Nvidia G-Sync HDR panels will also be even closer in quality, as it’s Nvidia picking the panel themselves – both the Asus PG27UQ and Acer Predator X27 have the same panel, so overall quality/effect should be nigh on identical.

    • neems says:

      Resolution isn’t part of the HDR standard, but I have at least two pc games (Far Cry 5 and Injustice 2, possibly others) that will only enable HDR if screen resolution is set to 4k.

      By contrast, a bog standard PS4 will output HDR on any compatible title with no problems whatsoever.

  2. Premium User Badge

    Drib says:

    The pictures of the difference had me thinking “Wow, I should get one!”

    But then the prices at the end basically make me write it off entirely. I bought my last car three years ago, and it cost less than the monitor here. Give me a break.

    • dangermouse76 says:

      10 year old Vauxhall Meriva 50,000 miles on the clock one owner full service history. £2,500

      What did you get ?

      • Premium User Badge

        Drib says:

        A 2001 mazda 626 with… I want to say it had about 180k miles, and unknown previous owners. $1500

        Yeah it was a piece of junk. But you know, it’s good for an example so I can say “my old car cost less than X!”.

        But really, sticker shock for a $2k monitor is not unreasonable I think.

        • dangermouse76 says:

          Absolutely, HDR screens are coming nowhere near me till their great grandchildren are grown up.

          £250 UK is the most I’ll go right now.

  3. Stormwatcher says:

    so how can i see the entire color gamut graphics on my sdr monitor?

  4. Ghostwise says:

    I’m a bit concerned about the brightness aspect, me. For the sake of me old, tired eyes I already lower max luminosity and apply a blue light filter (level 1 filter on recent Asus monitors).

    So a high-brightness monitor standing but 50 cm away sounds painful.

    • sagredo1632 says:

      I have to agree. Any commentary from anyone using these monitors as to how bad screen fatigue is? My most prized piece of electronics hardware is my Kindle primarily due to this problem. However bad it is for a television, I can only imagine it must be worse for a PC monitor given the relative proximity of the screen and probable duration of use.

      • dahools says:

        I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong but I don’t think they sit at max brightness across the whole screen all the time. If I am not mistaken the point is to make really bright things like reflections, the sun, god rays etc really pop out and be extra bright like they are in real life. They should also make the shadows really dark and believeable too. That’s my understanding of it anyway in relation to brightness.

    • Katharine Castle says:

      As mentioned below, it’s not the entire panel doing 1000cd/m2 – it’s just small bits of it when necessary, which is where the multiple backlight zones come in.

      Day to day, I use my monitor in much the same way as you – brightness turned down, Windows night light settings enabled etc – but I played a good chunk of FFXV on the Asus PG27UQ with everything up and turned on, and it wasn’t too bad. Felt my eyes getting tired a little quicker than normal, but still managed a comfortable couple of hours.

      • nottorp says:

        I don’t think it’s healthy. Back when we had CRT monitors I was able to use a computer in a completely dark room, by turning the brightness way down. Since we switched to LCDs, nope. I need to have ambient light to compensate or my eyes start to hurt.

        This new 1000 cd luminosity is there just because there is no lcd panel with a decent contrast, so they cram up the brightness so they can lie they have good contrast, while frying your eyes at the same time. Note that the PC monitors are still 8 bit (and probably 6 bit soon) panels that use dithering to simulate the 10 bit color depth, because it’s easier to lie about color depth than contrast. Expensive or not, I’m going to wait a few years before I even look at “HDR”. Whatever HDR will mean by then.

    • neems says:

      I played Ni No Kuni 2 on pc hooked up to a Sony xe90 tv which has a peak brightness of a little under 1000 nits, and there are certain scenes that are genuinely painful to look at – and this is from across the room.

      You get used to it, but if you were up close and personal to a 1000 nit monitor I can imagine it burning a hole through your retina.

  5. Raoul Duke says:

    Good topic.

    A couple of things to add:

    1. You’d be crazy IMHO to buy an average HDR monitor when you can buy a lovely HDR OLED TV instead.

    2. HDR support in Windows 10 is an appalling mess. Whereas on my PS4 if a game supports HDR it can just seamlessly switch to HDR mode when running, in Windows 10 for completely insane reasons you apparently have to run your desktop in HDR mode, thus largely ruining any non-HDR content, and even then only at certain resolutions and refresh rates, and even then it probably won’t work.

    Windows desperately needs to introduce support for simply switching to ‘full screen HDR’ when launching a game. At the moment it’s not really workable, at least in my attempts to get it happening (with all necessary hardware/software).

    That said, HDR content can look incredible. Some of the Dolby Vision stuff on Netflix looks really, really good. I’d argue it’s a bigger improvement than the step up from 1080p to 4k.

    • dragonfliet says:

      I think you’d be crazy to buy an OLED for a monitor. They look incredible, and are definitely bright enough for being right in your face, as a PC monitor is, but most people have very long periods of static images (ie: web browser tabs), which, with OLEDs problem of burn-in, as well as static game HUDs, means a ruined screen in only a few years. No thanks.

      • Raoul Duke says:

        I’m talking exclusively for gaming, for the reasons you mention. At the moment a Big Picture setup with an OLED TV is a better bet IMHO.

  6. Zenicetus says:

    OK, here’s a newb-level question. If I’m using a monitor for gaming as well as for some production Web stuff, can you throw a switch that turns the monitor into “normal” mode when using Photoshop when preparing images for the Web? Or is it HDR full-time, which doesn’t sound like it would work for editing images for the Web at large.

    • Raoul Duke says:

      There’s effectively a software switch in Windows 10 that you can use for this semi-conveniently. You definitely wouldn’t want to do image work with HDR on.

  7. Humppakummitus says:

    I wonder why HDR mode ruins SDR content. Shouldn’t it be a lossless conversion, since HDR is SDR with more color precision and brightness?

    • DThor says:

      It’s basically a protocol, it requires a particular stream of data to display correctly. If you push a regular stream, it should drop down to a regular gamut display. I have one of the newer OLED TVs, and once it detects a supported HDR stream it flips over and a little logo pops up momentarily to indicate HDR. Even with SDR the monitor looks amazing, with HDR it’s… profound. First thing I watched was the latest planet of the apes movie, and my jaw was on the floor with that twilight forest attack mission. I agree with the article – high gamut blows me away much more than simply pixel count.

      • Humppakummitus says:

        Yes, the HDR signal looks better, no question about that, but shouldn’t SDR content in HDR mode look exactly the same as in SDR mode? I find it odd that turning on HDR in Windows dims and dulls the colours, when it should be a pretty straight forward mapping to the matching HDR values.
        Windows’ HDR implemention is pretty new, though, so maybe it’s limited? Or is there some technical reason?

        • Raoul Duke says:

          Windows does a pretty crap job of implementing it, as far as I can see.

          As you say, logically if you have a wider colour and brightness (terms used loosely) range then there’s no good reason why non-HDR content couldn’t be accurately mapped within that range.

          For obscure reasons Windows makes the user decide how to do this with a crappy slider in control panel. Possibly because they don’t know precisely what your monitor can or can’t do, and so have a pretty ugly one size fits all solution.

          IMHO the neatest solution is to have a full screen HDR mode, which is basically what consoles do, and otherwise run in standard non-HDR. But I guess then you have people who want to run the desktop in HDR. So the other solution would probably be better drivers and/or a more refined hardware standard.

  8. identiti_crisis says:

    AMD’s charts for Freesync 2 clearly show a gamut at least close to equivalent to DCI-P3.

    There’s also this:
    link to anandtech.com

    “The key feature of the monitor is AMD’s FreeSync 2 dynamic refresh rate technology that mandates support of at least 90% of the DCI-P3 color space along with HDR and LFC (low framerate compensation)”

    I would suggest that “twice the perceivable brightness and colour volume of sRGB” covers both an increase in peak brightness and an increase in gamut.

  9. waltC says:

    If you could actually see a 32″ monitor generating 1000cd/m2 it would be so bright you’d have to look away–your eyes would likely water, too…;) It would be *very* uncomfortable, and could only be used in tiny portions of the screen at select intervals, imo. This is a great article, though. Basically, OLED is nice but note the caveat of teeny warranties–Sony is charging ~$3000 and offering a whopping *12-month* factory warranty–and last I heard Samsung was completely abandoning its OLED product line for the time being. Problems there.

    Basically, if you can buy a 32″ MVA panel with an .18 dot pitch that is 4k with a 10-bit color capability, with a 3-year factory warranty–and you can get it for $400–*jump on it like I just did.* This AOC U3277PWQU is *nice.*

  10. Case says:

    It’s a fairly nice article, but I do have some issues with the way you’re describing bit depth and color gamut. Specifically, you’re making it sound like higher bit depth automatically means wider color gamut, and vice versa, to the point where you’re outright saying that

    “Indeed, the number of colours a monitor is able to produce will naturally have a knock-on effect to its overall gamut coverage.”

    That’s not really true, though, and it is a misconception to think about color depth and gamut width like that. You can have a 10 bit panel that still “only” uses the sRGB gamut, and you can (at least in theory, I don’t think such panel exists) have an 8 bit panel (or even 6+2) covering the whole Pointer’s gamut. That’s because there really is no relationship between color depth and gamut width. The important thing to realize is that the individual colors in a gamut (as seen in the graphs) are basically just points in space, and the distance between the points can vary based on bit depth. You are given a certain gamut, as in a boundary beyond which no color showed by the panel can get, and you are given a certain number of colors to fill that space with. If you have a lot of colors (high bit depth), the individual color points will be close together, and if you have less colors available (lower bit depth), they will be much further apart, so if you for example try to view a very fine gradient, it will have visible steps between the colors because the step from one available color to the next will be larger and therefore more visible.

    You can kinda sorta imagine this as if you’re trying to fill a pool with water. Gamut tells you the length and width of the pool – which was predetermined by the manufacturer of the pool – while bit depth tells you how much water you have available to fill that pool. If you’re pool is very large and you don’t have enough water available, the water will still spread over the whole area of the pool, but you won’t be able to swim in it comfortably, because it will only be up to your knees (for example). Put the exact same amount of water (the same bit depth) into a pool that’s physically smaller, and the water will obviously fill the pool higher.

    This happens regardless of how wide the gamut actually is. The confusion probably comes from the fact that with higher bit depth, it’s obviously more reasonable to make the panel’s gamut wider, because the steps between the individual colors will still be acceptable enough, so people kinda associate the two together. But it still doesn’t really change the fact that there is basically no direct relation between gamut width and color bit depth.

    Also of note is the fact that having monitors with bit depth higher than 8 bit was essentially wasted until this whole HDR thing started, since the majority of consumer graphics cards were not able to produce bit depths higher than 8 bit until fairly recently (and many still don’t). Even if you’re a photographer and your DSLR can shoot 12 bit or 14 bit RAW images (which most of them can nowadays), they still get converted to 8 bit when you’re viewing them on a regular workstation. I mean…we don’t even have effective and widespread enough means of storing images with higher than 8 bit color depth available – both of the most popular image formats currently used, JPEG and PNG, only support the maximum of 8 bits of color depth, meaning you’re left to something like TIFF if you want to work with a higher bit depth image.

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